Ristorante Casa Setouchi - A culinary journey to Shodoshima

I have long wanted to go back to Shodoshima, an island off Kagawa Prefecture in Setouchi (Seto Inland Sea) in western Japan. The island is pure relaxation where locals make the most from the simplest things in life and the lifestyle utterly laid back because of its abundant resources. Fresh fish from the surrounding water, vegetables from the mountains, scenery of winding roads through farmlands and beautiful sunsets on the beach are unforgettable.

Shodoshima is a popular tourist destination famous for the world’s narrowest strait called Angel Road, where couples often visit. It’s said their relationship will last forever once they cross the path together hand in hand. The island was the first to successfully cultivate olives about a century ago, which gave it the nickname, “Olive Island.” The result is that pigs, cattle and even fish are fed the left-over olives after the oil is extracted to enhance the flavor.

It’s quite a trip from Tokyo, but thanks to Ristorante Casa Setouchi in Tokyo’s Hamamatsucho business district, I can go back to the island on a culinary journey whenever I want. At Casa Setouchi, you can taste the island’s best, with every detail dedicated to its nature.

The owner, Hiroshi Kasai, grew up on Shodoshima and spent all his working life in Hamamatsucho. He’s now in his 70s and wanted to express his appreciation by building a bridge between the two places he loves. There are many casual restaurants and izakaya in Hamamatsucho and most buildings are high-rise, so the two-story Casa Setouchi, with its white-walled European mansion-style architecture, stands out in the neighborhood.

The interior decor of the restaurant was selected by public affairs director Kumiko Uraki. The height of the single ceiling gives a lavish spaciousness to the design.The first thing you notice upon entering is the big TV monitor loop-playing an original promotional video of Shodoshima’s scenery. The first floor seats about 20, and the second floor 10.

The second floor has lower tables and relaxing chairs with armrests, which is great for a private party or lunch meetings. The six-meter-high glass mosaic art on the walls consists of 4,100 colorful tiles illustrating the island and the Seto Inland Sea.

The concept of the restaurant is to tell the story of Shodoshima, so each course and dish all have a title, like chapters in a book. Manager Chef Keita Otani recommends the “Setouchi Course,” comprising local ingredients directly shipped from the island.

Subtitled, “Song of the Ocean and Islands,” it starts with a couple of lightly salted olives followed by three kinds of appetisers titled “Music of the Breeze.” The ark shell fritter with fukinoto (fuki flower bud) and flatfish meuniere are exquisite as well as the olive oil powder (maltose) sprinkled on the glass plate. Yellowtail carpaccio provides a sweeter flavor.

The pasta course, “Circle of Nature,” consists of two kinds of pasta. The first — Spaghettini Genovese with Mackerel and Turnip — has a great texture of fresh turnips and Genovese sauce. The second pasta dish is Tortellini with Olive Pork, Jerusalem artichoke and Fontina Cheese. It looks like ravioli but the meat is not ground, so you can really chew on the sweetness of the pork.

The pasta comes sequentially, so what seems like the fourth course is a selection of the main. Fish (sea bass) is titled “Bounty of the Earth” and beef “Harvest of the Earth.” I must say the olive beef was one of the best I’ve ever had. It requires a lot of patience and attention to get it so tender, but it is crisp on the outside and rare inside with the marbling just right.

Last but not least comes “Refreshing Scent of citrus,” a trio of citrus desserts which are harmonised with sommelier Hideto Wakamatsu’s recommended muscat wine. To finish up, a selection of drinks and four kinds of small sweet bites leave you feeling fully satisfied.

I recommend you ask for wine-pairing to take advantage of Wakamatsu’s masterful knowledge. He brought me a bottle of Junmai Daiginjou sake from Morikumi Shuzou, which is the only sake brewery on Shodoshima. It’s a surprise to have such a drink at an Italian restaurant, but the fusion of Italian cuisine and the harvests of Setouchi pairs so well with sake.

Uraki says the restaurant wants guests to feel relaxed and stay as long as they want to enjoy genuine Italian at a reasonable price. Lunch courses start from ¥1,500 and dinner from ¥6,400. You can see for yourself that this is a good deal. My next trip to Shodoshima may not be soon, but I’m certain of my return to the house of Setouchi.

Ristorante Casa Setouchi

2-7-10 Hamamatsucho, Minato-ku 105-0013

Tel: 03-6432-0423

Lunch 11:30~14:30, dinner 17:30~22:00

Open Monday through Saturday. Closed on Sundays, Japanese holidays and the first Monday of each month.

• External Link
• https://www.casa-setouchi.com/

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