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© 2012 AFPNew York reaches the stars in new Michelin guide
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© 2012 AFP
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CHAMADE
Living in Tokyo (for over 4 decades now) and eating now and then at places to whom the Michelin people have given their little stars', you have to wonder if the writers covering Japan really know what's what - and especially about Japanese cuisine. I've eaten at a number of places, some very obscure and in the middle of nowhere, who have or had stars here (and which will remain unnamed), and frankly was deeply disappointed. The publishers, whom some of the local media criticized for their first edition choices (some calling the book "Mi-shiran!"!) claim to be employing a few Japanese these days, but the first couple of years I understand they 'ranked' restaurants in Tokyo and Kyoto by non-Japanese who did the testing and the subsequent ranking. There is an odd and potentially unconvincing chutzpah about having some fresh-off-the-boat Frenchman, for example, profess to enlighten Japanese readers of their little red books just what Japanese food and genres are good and what isn't. As if they could possibly share the same tastes and palate orientations. You kind of want to order them up a hefty serving of Casu Marzu....
2020hindsights
They are employing Japanese. And sure, there will always be people who don't agree, it's somewhat subjective. Michelin come close to what I like, so I use the guidebooks.