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Following three months of renovation, The Ritz-Carlton, Tokyo reopened its two signature restaurants with a swanky “East-meets-West” interior in March. At Towers — the luxury hotel’s contemporary grill — these culinary cultures harmoniously permeate the haute bistro fare served 45 floors above the ritzy Roppongi district.
Outfitted with marble tabletops and dark wooden paneling, the sleek 68-seat dining room melds contemporary design with the Japanese concept of wa: a time-honored sentiment of harmony. Moreover, with two iconic towers in broad view — Tokyo Tower and Tokyo Skytree — the restaurant’s name also pays homage to the old-meets-new aesthetic of this ever-expanding megalopolis.
With that said, Towers is no run-of-the-mill grill. The restaurant has, rather, undergone a rebranding from its initial offerings of “bistronomy”: modern twists on tried-and-true bistro classics. While preserving its slow-food aesthetic, this upscale eatery has refocused its emphasis on merging steakhouse staples with fresh and foreign ingredients, finished off with a cosmopolitan spin.
Towers’ revamped menu is courtesy of the French-born chef de cuisine, Franckelie Laloum, whose decade-long resume boasts multiple stints in Michelin-starred restaurants. Alongside humble and homey appetizers, soups, and sides — namely, salmon confit (¥2,900), lobster bisque (¥3,000), and steak-frites (French fries; ¥900) — bistro’s greatest hits still find a place on the expansive bill of fare.
But upon closer look, ubiquitous Japanese ingredients — be it Hokkaido uni (sea urchin), shiso leaves, or wagyu (the pinnacle of brand beef) — are seamlessly infused into signature Western mainstays: potato gnocchi (¥3,800), egg mimosa (¥2,600), and expertly seared sirloin (Kumamoto Aka Ushi; 500g ¥17,000; 1kg ¥32,000). These subtle combinations, undoubtedly, make for a delicious mélange of flavors that fuses occidental and oriental cooking techniques.
For those contemplating whether to order à la carte or go with a tasting menu, the restaurant offers both a three- or four-course “Towers Journey” (¥6,800; ¥8,900) or a five-course Omakase (chef’s choice) that frequently changes to reflect the season’s bounty (¥12,000). Currently, the dinner menu features white and green asparagus, Hokkaido sea scallops, and Pacific rockfish (a firm, white-fleshed cod). These ingredients, in turn, provide diners a flavor profile that embodies the beginning of spring, and in the coming months, expect seasonable additions that mark the arrival of summer.
Wine pairings, including a Champagne toast, are also available in either three or five glasses (¥4,500; ¥7,500) to accompany the tasting menus.
The catchphrase “rustic yet refined” would best describe the gratifying five-course “Omakase Tasting,” in which each meticulously plated dish didn’t feel like an afterthought. The progression of flavors, guided by a professional touch, was evident from the start.
Commencing with our appetizer, a bed of snowy-white king crab meat is jazzed up with shaved slices of black daikon and green apple, topped with a tangy mandarin orange vinaigrette. A drizzle of aromatic fir oil finishes off the standout starter that delightfully resembles a non-fried crab cake.
Next, a plump pan-seared scallop is artfully arranged upon a jet-black plate, which simultaneously complements and contrasts with the butter-laden shellfish. Accompanied by steamed green asparagus and a scattering of spring peas, the second dish is accented with a splash of amber-colored nori (seaweed) confit. The unconventional pairing of Japanese seaweed with melted butter is one of many ingenious examples of Towers’ take on dishes that showcase an East-meets-West sensibility.
A generous serving of luscious saffron-spiked aioli gives a lift to the pan-crisped catch of the day: rockfish fillet. The plating, once again, is exquisitely executed with captivating colors ranging from shades of caramelized chestnut to creamy butternut squash. Speckled with edible flower petals, sprigs of dill, and sliced fennel, this superb fish dish is a palatable powerhouse.
But let’s not forget what sets a show-stopping grill apart: the beef. Off the à la carte menu, meat connoisseurs can order from three cuts of high-end steaks —sirloin, ribeye, and tenderloin — which includes two breeds of Japanese wagyu: Akaushi and Kuroge Wagyu (literally, red- and black-haired cattle).
That night, the omakase menu featured Australian sirloin with a side of white asparagus, carefully stacked to further accentuate the dish’s sophisticated plating. The succulent strips, seared a perfect medium-rare, were delectably buttery and paired wonderfully with a dollop of zesty horseradish-mint sauce.
A fine dinner, of course, calls for an equally fine dessert, ideally a sweet concoction that caps off its grandiosity. The Black Sesame Exotic precisely fits the bill. Layered upon a scoop of mango compote, crisp sesame biscuits are sandwiched between piped passion fruit mousse and a spoonful of black sesame ice cream.
The sweet finish is yet another testament to Towers’ smart presentation, which more than epitomizes a melding of Eastern and Western cuisine. By deftly striking a balance between beloved classics and contemporary ingenuity, these grilled dishes almost become synonymous with Tokyo itself: a progressive epicenter that still retains glimpses of the past.
Towers Contemporary Grill
Address: The Ritz-Carlton, Tokyo 45F, Midtown 9-7-1 Akasaka, Minato-ku, Tokyo
Tel: 03-6434-8711
Hours: Weekday Lunch & Weekend Brunch 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.; Dinner 5:30 p.m. to 10 p.m.
Access: Roppongi Station Exit 8 leads directly to The Ritz-Carlton, Tokyo
Featured Menu: Omakase Tasting 5 Courses; ¥12,000
© Japan Today
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