Sake cocktails add a new twist to Japan’s traditional tipple

Does Sake Hall Hibiya Bar follow the template for mid- to large-scale cocktail bars? Cavernous floor space broken up into smaller rooms and alcoves: check. Flattering lighting, interiors dominated by rich timber and dark tones: double check. Staff clad in waistcoats, jazz singers scatting or Bing Crosby crooning in the background: triple check. Pompom-like "sugidama" (cedar balls) greeting you at the entrance: hang on!

It was only a matter of time before someone opened a cocktail bar devoted to all things "nihonshu"—and this collaborative effort between brewers from Yamaguchi to Yamagata and some prefectures in between fits the bill. Given Ginza’s stellar reputation as the district to sip on high-class cocktails, the well-heeled location comes as no surprise. But while jet-setting barflies may be familiar with the sake bomb or saketini, the drinks at Sake Hall Hibya Bar are different and surprisingly affordable beasts.

Upon arrival, the staff will ask which of seven sake-brewing regions (each of which has its own "kura," or room) you would like to visit. Each "kura" features its own drinks list, and uses sake from its specific region as the base for the 100-plus cocktails on the menu. Indecisive souls can camp out in the central open area where sake from all the different regions is available, but the "kura" offer relative peace and privacy and you are free to move elsewhere later should you wish.

While sake replaces vodka or gin in many of the menu’s cocktails, Sake Hall is staking its credentials on two original creations, the “Sake nic” (580 yen) and the “Sake espuma” (from 630 yen). On a recent visit after work, the former was a welcome start to the evening’s proceedings; a dry and refreshing spritzer-like beverage intended to quench one’s thirst on a scorching day. The sake is mixed with a half tonic, half soda water blend, a sliver of orange peel lending color and fragrance.

The beer-like espuma, meanwhile, allowed the bartender to show off his prowess. He placed the drink before us, then used a siphon to ceremoniously whip up a frothy head. The beer-like illusion was interesting visually, but the jury was out on the taste.

Feeling peckish? The kitchen also embraces the use of sake in its bar snacks but the sake kasu selection (five dishes, 1,880 yen) was a hit-and-miss affair. Next time we’ll order the standout items—succulent pork and cabbage and celery pickles—separately. Our taste buds were affronted when tinned champignons appeared in the grilled shrimp and mushrooms in oil (680 yen), but our faith in the food menu was restored with an order of “avocado fritto” (500 yen), crumbed, shallow-fried batons of the fruit sitting upright on a bed of tartare sauce.

Back to the drinks and an unintended dessert in the form of a chocolate-flavored “mill iceberg” (630 yen). Destined for hit status in the warmer months, the cocktail is basically a sake granita. Despite offering a variety of “mill icebergs,” Sake Hall’s flavors lean sadly toward the sweeter end of the spectrum. Our version had an agreeably bitter edge as the sake and cacao riffed off each other nicely, but more neutral flavor pairings would be a welcome improvement.

Acknowledging the purists among us, sake is also available by the wine glass (or bottle if you’re so inclined). It’s a smart decision; a party was in full swing at Bar Tsukasabotan, the "kura" from Kochi, where a mixed group of revelers was partaking in both straight sake and a cornucopia of cocktails.

A standout from the Oyama "kura" in Yamagata Prefecture was the food-friendly Tomizu (530 yen), a robust "junmaishu" that uses less water in the brewing process than normal sake. We later journeyed to Nara for a glass of the Harushika "junmai ginjyo" (720 yen). Imparting a cool, clean aftertaste, it made a refreshing summer tipple. Also enjoyable was Miyagi Prefecture’s Ichinokura Hiyakoi (720 yen), an aromatic "honjozo namazake" that had a silky, lingering bite.

No matter whether you’re after a fine selection of sake or a different take on the cocktail, Sake Hall Hibiya Bar offers a relaxed and comfortable venue for "nihonshu" novices and sophisticated initiates alike.

B1 Miyuki Bldg, 5-6-12 Ginza, Chuo-ku. Tel: 03-3752-7123

This story originally appeared in Metropolis magazine (www.metropolis.co.jp).

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