The white asparagus menu at the Andaz Tavern
table talk

White asparagus the star ingredient at Andaz Tavern

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By Jessica Sayuri Boissy

While the concept of eateries offering seasonal fares is nothing new, Andaz Tavern (the in-house restaurant at the Andaz Tokyo) has crafted a fleeting menu featuring a befitting star ingredient: the white asparagus.

Until June 30, asparagus aficionados can savor eight eclectic dishes that delectably showcase the thick pearly spears in a refreshing herb salad, hearty soup, even sweetly disguised as dessert. Think of it as an “Iron Chef” feat — sans the stylized cook-off.

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Twilight view from the Andaz Tavern Photo: Jessica Sayuri Boissy

Situated on the 51st floor of Toranomon Hills, Andaz Tavern boasts stunning views of the shifting Tokyo skyline over the Imperial Palace: an expansive park-like enclosure where the world’s oldest monarchy calls home. The sleek wood-paneled interior bedecked in floor-to-ceiling windows is bathed in natural light during the day; but as evening falls into night, the room’s ambiance is accented by soaring office buildings and shimmering streetlights down below.

The cuisine is evidently rustic yet refined, drawing inspiration from the unparalleled provinces of Europe—each distinctively defined by their regional dishes. Even the European preference for local produce is adopted, as Japanese ingredients are seasonally sourced from farm to fork.

That said, the revered white asparagus is no stranger to spring and early summer feasts in France and Germany: be it blanched, seared, steamed or sautéed Grenoble style (in a sumptuous sauce of browned butter, capers, and lemons).

Luckily, Tokyoites can sample this transient treat off the à la carte dinner menu; likewise, patrons can personalize their own white asparagus dish with a choice of four decadent toppings from home cured salmon to sirloin steak (120 grams; ¥2,800; toppings ¥800 to ¥2,800).

And in keeping with the provincial flair, diners can douse their stalks of edible ivory with two classic accompaniments: a lemony hollandaise sauce or tangy egg vinaigrette.

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White asparagus topped with crispy poached eggs Photo: Jessica Sayuri Boissy

After a quick overview of the seasonal selections, our attentive waiter recommended the white asparagus topped with crispy poached eggs (¥2,300) and tossed as a salad with yogurt dressing (¥3,100) for starters. The touch of a fork sent runny yolk to drizzle over the tender spears of the first dish; rosy bits of bacon brought pungent flavor to each bite. For the salad, leafy greens added color to the slices of spring bounty dressed in pickled morel mushrooms and folds of Parma ham.

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Asparagus blanketed with hollandaise and ham Photo: Jessica Sayuri Boissy

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Asparagus egg vinaigrette and lox, served with a side of herb-infused baby potatoes Photo: Jessica Sayuri Boissy

Intrigued by the “wholesome flavor” of white asparagus, my dining companion and I opted for two create-your-own dishes: one blanketed with hollandaise and ham, the other with egg vinaigrette and lox. Served with a side of herb-infused baby potatoes, I would suggest sharing one personalized plate after scarfing the sizeable portions. To get more variety, select garnishes that won’t overlap with previous platters (i.e. my tasty encore of Parma ham).

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Asparagus lobster gratin Photo: Jessica Sayuri Boissy

Like a triumphant “Iron Chef” challenge, the white asparagus entrées proved that the “not-so-secret ingredient” (in our case) could be baked into a homey lobster gratin (¥8,000) or embellished alongside oven roasted sea bass (¥3,400). Plump lobster meat, plus a medley of bright sugar peas and watercress, cloaked the crisp, golden gratin crust; however, it’s the creamy filling inside that revealed a comforting spoonful of mashed potatoes.

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Sea bass Photo: Jessica Sayuri Boissy

Sopping sun-dried tomatoes and Grenoble sauce (a coveted buttery condiment) drenched the sizzling sea bass fillet, as warm asparagus stalks simultaneously soaked up the velvety pool at the bottom of the plate.

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Asparagus crème brûlée adorned with raspberries and ice cream Photo: Jessica Sayuri Boissy

For dessert, the noble vegetable took center stage yet again as a luscious crème brûlée adorned with raspberries and a dollop of ice cream (¥1,400). Of course, those who crave more tried-and-true confections can order off the main menu, which includes an exquisite natsumikan (summer tangerine) tiramisu (¥1,200).

As with all good things, this seasonal celebration of white asparagus won’t last long at Andaz Tavern. So take advantage of the harvest at hand by indulging in these delicate gems—before it’s too late!

Andaz Tavern

Andaz Tokyo Toranomon Hills 51 Fl, 1-23-4 Toranomon, Minato-ku

Tel: 03-6830-7739

Hours: Breakfast 6:30 a.m. to 10:30 a.m.; lunch 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m.; dinner 6 p.m. to 10 p.m.

Aside from the featured à la carte menu, prix fixe dinners (ranging from 3 to 6-courses) are also available; wine pairings for an additional fee.

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