Less than two hours from the dazzling neon of Tokyo, the scenic mountains of Gunma prefecture are practically overrun with hot springs; there’s Takaragawa onsen, with its picturesque open-air baths along the river which allow mixed bathing, and beer; Kusatsu onsen, which spurts out around 4000 liters of sulphuric spring water every minute; Sainokawara onsen, an enormous outdoor bath with space for 99 other people; and Hoshi Chojukan, a remote inn deep in the mountains with secluded outdoor baths that you can have all to yourself.
The best introduction to Gunma’s onsen is at Kusatsu which boasts the highest amount of hot spring water in the country. In the town center, the yubatake (hot water field) uses wooden troughs to cool down and distribute the hot water to the surrounding public baths and inns.
You can also witness the yumomi where local women stir the hot spring waters with large wooden paddles while singing and dancing traditional songs.
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