History, nature and delicious cuisine in Ishikawa and the Noto Peninsula

Located on the Sea of Japan, Ishikawa Prefecture once held a powerful place in feudal Japan. We can see this legacy today at Kenrokuen Garden, one of the three greatest Japanese traditional gardens, and the faithfully restored Kanazawa Castle. In the prefectural capital and beyond, there are lots of ways to connect to the culture and beauty of Ishikawa. From its celebrated seafood and local produce to vibrant ceramics and views from atop Mount Utatsu, Ishikawa Prefecture has much to savor and explore.

On Jan. 1, 2024, Ishikawa and the Noto Peninsula was rocked by a powerful earthquake that killed hundreds of people and injured thousands more. The hardest hit regions are still recovering from the disaster and residents continue to experience other hardships, such as extensive flooding caused by record-breaking rainfall in September. While bringing tourism back to the area helps to reinvigorate local economies, there are ways to help from afar too. Making donations to the Japanese Red Cross and 2nd Harvest, an organization that provides food for vulnerable groups, can go a long way towards making a positive difference in Ishikawa.

Nature

Enjoy the view of Kanazawa City from the top of Mount Utatsu. Image: Soriano/Pixta

In the city or out on the Noto Peninsula, there’s plenty of nature to bask in for visitors to Ishikawa.

Mount Utatsu

Measuring almost 150 meters tall, Mount Utatsu looks over Kanazawa City. The relatively short size makes for an easy hike to the top in just about 30 minutes. From there, you’ll have a sweeping panoramic view of the city, especially at night. Along the way to the summit, there are nooks and crannies to explore as well.

Head to the Iris Garden in June for nearly 3,000 hydrangeas and July for more than 200,000 irises, including approximately 100 varieties. Take a stroll on one of the park’s three levels, which include streams and ponds to accompany the flowering blossoms. The Mount Utatsu Temple Area lies near the base of the mountain near the Asanogawa River and contains about 50 temples and shrines of varying sizes. With lots of narrow trails lying under the lightly canopied forest, you’ll have a lovely time navigating this quiet slice of city life.

Exploring the Noto Peninsula coastline

The Ganmon Sea Cave is just one of the adventures you can have on the Noto Peninsula. Image: Sean Pavone/iStock

The Noto Peninsula is the northern tip of Ishikawa Prefecture that juts out into the Sea of Japan. With scenic views and small towns perfect for experiencing local culture, touring the peninsula is a great option for people looking for adventure outside the big cities.

Cyclists setting out from Kanazawa and tracing a route along the coast up and back down to Himi in neighboring Toyama Prefecture can expect about 360 kilometers of mostly flat terrain. A shorter trip from Hakui City to Nanao City measures around 240 kilometers. Reward yourself at your destination with a soak in the historical Wakura Onsen.

If you’re interested in a day trip from Kanazawa, try the Ganmon Sea Cave. The site is famous for its large hole that cuts a tunnel through a massive rock formation on the Kongo Coast. Take a walk around the shore and in the cave or get a different perspective via a boat tour.

Traditional crafts

Kutani ware, great for a gift or the dinner table. Image: Garnier/Pixta

Ishikawa Prefecture is home to not one, but two beautiful types of traditional crafts for your dinner table.

Kutani ware

In the mid-17th century, clay deposits were discovered near the village of Kutani in the southwest corner of Ishikawa Prefecture. Transforming the raw materials into porcelain and applying techniques learned from Arita, one of the leaders of Japanese ceramic production, Kutani ware was born.

Characterized by its intricate designs painted over its initial glaze before being fired again, Kutani ware features several vibrant colors depicting natural motifs and scenes with people and nature. Notably, yellow, green, purple, red and Prussian blue form Kutani gosai, or Kutani’s five colors. In Kaga City, the present-day location of Kutani, you can learn more about Kutani ware and even try your hand at crafting your own vessels at the Kutani-yaki Kiln Museum.

Wajima lacquerware

Wajima lacquerware has a distinctive glossy shine. Image: omizu/Pixta

At the other end of the prefecture on the Noto Peninsula, you can find another form of traditional crafts: Wajima lacquerware. Named after the city of the same name, Wajima lacquerware features a distinctively glossy exterior made possible by jinoko, powdered diatomaceous soil only found around Wajima.

Using Japanese zelkova or cherry birch trees as the base wood, lacquerware goods include everything from chopsticks and stationary to tableware. The whole process from start to finish can take over 100 steps to produce its signature look. Check out the Wajima Museum of Lacquer Art for its incredible collection.

Ishikawa’s cuisine

Enjoy your miso soup with a little snow crab. Image: mj-cavolo/Pixta

Ishikawa’s geography means great food from north to south.

Crabs

Situated on the Sea of Japan and benefitting from the intersection of cold and warm currents, Ishikawa is unsurprisingly well known for its seasonal catches. Several varieties of crab are caught throughout the year. Kegani (horsehair crab) may not be a household name, but it’s a delicious one that is available much of the year outside of summer and packs a sweet flavor.

Meanwhile, kobakogani (female snow crab) is highly sought after in winter for its rich and creamy meat and abundance of roe. Enjoy it boiled and seasoned with vinegar and soy sauce or simmered whole as a soup.

Kaga's vegetables

Sample the Kaga region’s renowned heirloom vegetables. Image: ooaco/Pixta

Kaga yasai (literally meaning vegetables from Kaga) are a special designation of heirloom vegetables grown in and around Kanazawa City. While many of these vegetables have been consumed by locals for generations, they have gradually become less profitable to produce. Nevertheless, a dedicated group has fought hard to keep this part of regional culinary history alive.

Kuwai (arrowhead bulb) is a little bitter, often simmered and commonly found in Ishikawa’s New Year’s cuisine (osechi). A sweet potato known for its high sugar and relatively low moisture content, Gorojima kintoki is a fall favorite and central ingredient in soft serve ice cream and sweets. Eat like a local and pick up some Kaga yasai at Omicho Market, Kanazawa’s largest and most important fresh food market.

More to explore

Mount Hakusan from one of its triple peaks, Onanjimine. Image: Alpsdake/Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0

Ishikawa Prefecture has lots more to offer. Why not check out these extra spots to round out your trip planning?

• Natadera Temple
  A Buddhist temple enshrining Kannon, the Goddess of Mercy, built around unique rocky cave formations that have been a spiritual site for over 2000 years.
• Noto Satoyama-Satoumi sightseeing train
  A sightseeing train that travels a 33-kilometer route of the Noto peninsula, with breathtaking views of the sea and countryside.
• Mount Hakusan hiking
  Climb up one of Japan’s three holy peaks, long a site of mountain worship, also designated a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve for its rich tapestry of alpine flora.