Kawagoe offers window into bygone era

Just 30 minutes to the north of central Tokyo, Kawagoe is a delightful old merchant town that offers a window into a bygone era. Visitors need only spend a short time roaming its streets to understand why this place has been dubbed “little Edo.”

Some 20 minutes to the north of Kawagoe station, the area around Ichiban-gai is home to a number of well-preserved "kura-zukuri" — fireproof merchant houses dating back to the Edo and Meiji periods. Nearby, you’ll find one of Kawagoe’s most distinctive buildings, the three-story Toki no Kane bell tower, which still tolls four times a day.

To the southeast lies Kita-in temple, the Kanto headquarters of the Tendaishu Buddhist sect. There is a museum and some carefully manicured gardens, but the real reason to visit is for the captivating Gohyaku Rakan (“500 Buddhist disciple statues”), each of which has a different pose and personality.

Though the town is usually pretty quiet, it comes to life during the third weekend of October, when traditional wooden floats and hordes of people make their way along the main streets for the Kawagoe Matsuri. When one float meets another, a “battle of the bands” erupts, as both teams dance and play their own traditional music, attempting to make the other group lose the beat.

If you can’t wait until October, the Kawagoe Matsuri Kaikan (festival museum) offers live music performances twice daily on Sundays and holidays, as well as dramatic depictions of the festival and its history. On the 28th of every month, you can pick up something special at the antique market at Naritasan Betsu-in, followed by the "Kawagoe Kimono Walk" around the town's most famous spots.

For a tasty way to finish off your trip, pay a visit to Kashiya-yokocho, a.k.a. Candy Alley. The street’s stores offer a selection of candies and a dizzying variety of rice crackers, as well as an array of sweet-potato concoctions, from chips to ice cream, coffee and even beer.

For the latest details about festivals and events in Kawagoe, call 049-222-5556 or see www.koedo.or.jp/foreign/english.

Metropolis magazine

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