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Misasa Onsen’s Kawara Buro is a mixed-gender open-air hot spring bath adjacent to the river running through town. It is open to all who are brave enough to bathe within eyeshot of passersby.
Misasa Onsen’s Kawara Buro is a mixed-gender open-air hot spring bath adjacent to the river running through town. It is open to all who are brave enough to bathe within eyeshot of passersby. Image: debokoko/Pixta
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Top 3 hot springs in Japan's least-populated prefecture of Tottori

6 Comments
By Laura Payne

To experience an onsen (hot spring) getaway that offers a true escape from the big city, head to Tottori — Japan’s least-populated prefecture. Famous for delectable local food, the hometowns of classic manga artists and Japan’s largest sand dunes, Tottori offers countless activities for travelers who want to sightsee in between enjoying hot springs. Those whose main aim is to relax, meanwhile, can retreat to laid-back, uncrowded hot spring towns that are rich in natural beauty and cultural connections.

Regular domestic flights and express trains offer access to Tottori from Japan’s major urban hubs. Local trains and buses, meanwhile, whisk visitors to must-see sightseeing spots and the most famous hot spring resorts. Read on for a quick guide to the prefecture’s top three hot spring destinations.

Kaike Onsen: Hot springs between the mountain and the sea

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Kaike Onsen is located in western Tottori’s largest city between the Sea of Japan and Mount Daisen. Image: colors/Pixta

Kaike Onsen is a seaside hot spring resort with over a dozen hotels and ryokan (traditional-style inns) accommodating day visitors and overnight guests. Simply enjoying hotel facilities and strolling along Kaike Onsen Beach makes for a good trip. However, Kaike Onsen’s location in the city of Yonago also ensures that visitors can easily access western Tottori’s most famous sights.

Mount Daisen — the highest mountain in Japan’s Chugoku Region — is accessible by bus from Yonago station (check the Yonago City Tourist Information Center located in the station for current bus timetables). After the snow falls, skiing and snowboarding at Daisen White Resort is the mountain’s most popular attraction.

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The gardens at Tottori Hanakairo Flower Park include tropical greenhouses, which are incorporated into annual winter illuminations. Image: 頼朝/Pixta

Yonago station also operates regular shuttle buses to Tottori Hanakairo Flower Park — famous for its winter illumination displays — and trains to Mizuki Shigeru Road. A must-see for fans of manga and Japanese folklore, this street celebrates the late manga artist Mizuki Shigeru and his famous supernatural series Gegege no Kitaro.

Yonago is accessible by plane from Tokyo via Yonago Kitaro Airport. The city is also accessible by train via the Sunrise Express from Tokyo or the Yakumo limited express from Okayama. From Yonago station, buses and taxis can take visitors to Kaike Onsen.

Hawai Onsen and Togo Onsen: Hot springs by the lake

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Hawai Onsen and Togo Onsen sit on the western and southern shores of Lake Togo respectively. Image: dekoboko/Pixta

Travelers planning to visit both eastern and western Tottori can break up their journey with an overnight stay at Hawai Onsen or Togo Onsen, which are located in the prefecture’s center. Nestled on the shores of Lake Togo and removed from the largest local cities, these adjacent resorts provide respite.

A must-see attraction for guests at either resort is a group of seven hot spring foot baths spread out over about four kilometers between Togo Onsen and Hawai Onsen. Each of these uniquely-designed foot baths is named after one of the Shichifukujin (Seven gods of fortune) — deities who have been venerated in Japan for centuries. By walking to each of these foot baths, visitors can become acquainted with the local townscape and beautiful lakeside views.

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Fukurokuju no Yu is a foot bath named after the god of wealth, wisdom, happiness and longevity. Image: debokoko/Pixta

Togo Onsen is the easiest resort to access by train as many accommodations are located within walking distance of JR Matsuzaki station. Attractions such as Chinese Garden Enchoen — one of the largest authentic Chinese gardens in Japan — are also accessible from Togo Onsen on foot.

Guests heading to Hawai Onsen, meanwhile, should stop at Kurayoshi station. Hawai Onsen is accessible from here by local bus or taxi in about ten to twenty minutes, and certain hotels and ryokan operate shuttle buses from Kurayoshi station.

Both Kurayoshi station and Matsuzaki station are accessible via local trains. Kurayoshi is also a stop along the Super Hakuto limited express’s route, which provides fast transportation from Kyoto, Osaka, Kobe, Himeji and Tottori City.

Misasa Onsen: Healing hot springs

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Many ryokan at Misasa Onsen sit near or alongside the local river, providing beautiful views for guests. Image: debokoko/Pixta

Legend claims that spending three mornings bathing at Misasa Onsen has the power to cure any ailment. This is just one of the stories connected to this hot spring area.

Allegedly, Misasa Onsen was discovered over 800 years ago after being revealed in a dream to a samurai who had chosen to spare the life of a white wolf he encountered. After this, the springs became popular with pilgrims who planned to climb the nearby Mount Mitoku. Today, Misasa Onsen is recognized as a Japan Heritage site by the government’s Agency for Cultural Affairs, acknowledging the area’s rich legacy.

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Misasa Onsen is also famous for its townscape — a blend of traditional aesthetics with modern conveniences, featuring some shops and a classic arcade that look like time capsules from Japan’s Showa Period (1926-1989). Image: debokoko/Pixta

The waters of Misasa Onsen are unique because they contain trace amounts of radon. Modern studies say that the springs are safe to bathe in, however, because they contain less radiation than technologies such as x-rays. Instead, it is believed that exposure to the springs’ small quantities of radon can have health benefits such as boosting immunity.

Taxis from Kurayoshi station can reach Misasa Onsen in about fifteen minutes while local buses can transport visitors in twenty to thirty minutes. This makes it possible to enjoy Misasa Onsen as an overnight visitor or on a day trip from Kurayoshi. Day visitors are welcome at hot spring foot baths and day-use springs such as Kabuyu Public Bath — said to be the spring discovered by the samurai centuries before.

A word on tattoos

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Kashikiri buro are baths that are not attached to guest rooms. Instead, they can be rented or reserved for private use (often for a fee). Image: LeoHorn/Pixta

Every hot spring facility in Tottori has its own rules, but it is currently common for local hot springs to not allow guests with tattoos into the main baths. However, tattooed visitors can possibly be accommodated in kashikiri buro (private rental) baths.

Often used by couples or families, kashikiri can usually be reserved for time periods of about 45 minutes to one hour upon checking in to an accommodation (day visitors can sometimes rent them, but this depends on the facility). Not every hotel or ryokan has kashikiri, so make sure to confirm your desired accommodation has one ahead of time.

Alternatively, many hotels and ryokan offer guest rooms that come with private hot spring baths.

Enjoy the journey

Tottori is a hidden gem that offers the best of rural Japan without sacrificing accessibility. There are a myriad of things to see and do throughout the year, and winter months are a particularly inviting time to experience local hot springs. When the desire to get away arises, Japan’s most peaceful prefecture is waiting for you.

© Japan Today

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6 Comments
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I am a big fan of Misasa onsen's Kawara buro. It is situated by the side of the main river in Misasa and about 30 yards from a bridge over the river. Sometimes there is a barrier between the onsen and the bridge that provides some privacy from those walking over the bridge, but this has varied over the years. The last time I was there, several years ago, the barrier was made of reeds. I gathered that it could wash away if the river floods. The bath is easiest to enter after dusk or early in the morning if one is shy. As long as you have body confidence, it is a nice place and both visitors and locals mingle for conversations and a nice soak.

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Whenever I read about Japan's love of hot springs, I wonder why they do not build more hydrothermal electricity plants. The two things are not mutually exclusive. Once built, hydrothermal plants can provide clean electricity for many decades, without paying to import oil or coal. It is possible to use all of a local sources steaming water for energy, and thus not leave enough to for a surface hot spring, but it is not necessary to do so.

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Most hot springs are in national parks, and obtaining permission to build hydrothermal plants is impossible.

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As a youth I found a natural hot spring in the hills, about a half kilometer from the road. It was delightful. California also leads the world in hydrothermal energy production. Where there is a will, there is a way.

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This one in Toyama. It can only be reach by a 35 min river ferry trip up river. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EuVcvCmwf-c

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John-San: I enjoyed that visit to Oomaki Onsen...nice video!

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