Where the wild things are: Escaping to Kochi

As the cold winds blow and heaters are kept on full blast, our thoughts turn to warmer climates and the upcoming spring and summer. With COVID still making impromptu travel abroad a risky proposition, I have been planning some excursions to areas of Japan where you can protect your personal space and see a bit of the country off the beaten track. One is Kochi Prefecture, down on the southern side of Shikoku, which has long been a personal favorite for my solo adventures.

One of the still unknown (although probably not for long) events on my personal agenda is the Tosa no Okyaku festival, which is set to take place in early March after being canceled for two years in a row. Held since 2006, this popular event is a chance to experience Kochi Prefecture’s okyaku celebratory party culture on a massive scale. Parks and shotengai in central Kochi City are transformed into block parties where you can sample sake from the prefecture’s 18 breweries, try sawachi ryori (massive plates loaded with tasty tidbits), listen to live performances and play some of the local drinking games. While this year the festivities might be a bit more subdued than usual due to COVID-19, the chance to rollick with the party-loving Kochiites (and pray to the very unique “god of drunkards,” Bero Bero no Kamisama) is something I wouldn't miss for the world.

Since entering the prefecture via Kochi City is the easiest option for those coming from Honshu, I absolutely recommend planning your visit so that you can spend your morning at the Sunday Market, an over 300-year-old institution that stretches for 1.3 kilometers from the Otemon Gate at the foot of Kochi Castle. Grab a coffee from one of the many cafes, then stroll down the market to find your perfect breakfast: from freshly fried imoten (fluffy sweet potato tempura), inaka-sushi (veggie-based country-style sushi) and sweet buns, to homemade muffins, mochi, grilled skewers of meat and veggies, the stalls are filled with tempting options.

However, my ultimate goal is to escape into the glorious nature of this prefecture that is 84% covered in forest, and there are a number of options, whether you love the sea, mountains, river valleys or retro towns.

The Shimanto River valley is one of the prefecture’s highlights, and possibly still one of Japan’s best-kept secrets. As the last free-flowing river in the country, the pristine twists and turns of the waterways are occasionally dotted with chinkabashi, stocky little submersible bridges, and the occasional quiet settlement of traditional houses. It is to the Takase Chinkabashi that I would head (with good train connections to the hub of Nakamura Station), as just a 10 minute walk away is Shimanto River Hideaway, a wonderful little house with all the comforts you need (WiFi! coffee!) and excellent access to trails and the peaceful riverside.

Although best in summer, Kaiyu is a beach-lover’s ideal hideaway, fronting Oki Beach, a 1.5-kilometer stretch of white sand. This protected bay is teeming with subtropical fish flitting through turquoise waters, which also happens to be a spawning ground for endangered loggerhead turtles. The Okada family aim to create a truly holistic retreat for visitors.

Each room faces the ocean and is decorated using local wood such as hinoki (Japanese cypress),  sugi (Japanese cedar) and other natural building materials that are not harmful to the body. Group meals with freshly caught fish and organic ingredients are a chance to refuel and make new friends, but you will get plenty of privacy, making this an ideal spot for a long workation that includes snorkeling and biking breaks.  Despite the idyllic, remote location, it takes just over 2.5 hours by train and bus from central Kochi Station, convenient if you prefer to avoid driving.

However, of all the landscapes Kochi has to offer, the mountains are definitely my personal favorite. The town of Yusuhara, about two hours by car (or three by bus) from Kochi City, is a shining example of a rural town that has managed to merge tradition and modernity perfectly. Home to  six buildings designed by renowned architect Kengo Kuma, all made from locally-sourced wood, the town has a retro-cool vibe that has attracted a number of new residents. The Yusuhara Town Library is particularly magical.

While there are lovely options for accommodation in town, the dream is to ride up to the Shikoku Karsts, where you can stay up in the clouds around 1,485 meters at Hoshifuru Village Tengu. High up on the plateau you can watch the stars, hike among the rocky karsts (and occasional cow!) and gaze across the mountains that stretch down below you as you soak in the large bath.

When the pace of the city gets to be too much, it is the rural charm and warm welcome of places like Kochi that refill my cup and help slow down a busy mind. I found peace, friendship and outdoor adventures (and amazing sake!) in Kochi. Maybe you will too.

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