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Image: Vicki L Beyer
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Yoshida Tea Farm: Exploring tea production up close

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By Vicki L Beyer

Tea, especially green tea, is ubiquitous in Japan. From the hastily prepared pot that remains popular at breakfast (and most other times of day, for that matter) to cakes and noodles flavored with matcha (green tea) powder, tea is everywhere.

This perennially popular item is produced in various regions across the country, largely in the southwestern part of the country. But tea farms can be found even in close proximity to Tokyo, if one knows where to look.

Yoshida Chaen (aka Yoshida Tea Farm) in the Ibaraki town of Koga, has been producing high quality tea since 1839.

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Image: Vicki L Beyer

Less than two hours from Tokyo, Yoshida Tea Farm offers tours (in either Japanese or English) of its tea gardens and production facilities, as well as tea tastings. Visitors can learn how tea is grown and processed, as well as how the brewing itself can change the flavor of the tea, while enjoying the atmosphere of an authentic tea farm.

The Tour

Visitors are welcomed with a cup of tea, often served outdoors on a comfortable wooden platform overlooking hedges of tea plants, a relaxing start to a fascinating learning experience.

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Here one gets an introductory talk about Yoshida Tea Farm, its history and its product. It is possible to take a close look at the tea hedges and maybe, with permission, pluck a leaf. Slowly one begins to understand the plant and how to judge which leaves are best to become tea. Learn the difference between the quality of hand-picked leaves and those picked by machine.

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Some visitors might be surprised by the compact nature of the farm, a plot of flat land wedged between the train tracks (those who traveled by train would have passed the farm shortly before arriving at Koga Station) and a small by-road. Yet it is well-run and highly productive, with a dedicated staff who are passionate about their work and love sharing the farm with visitors."

The tour continues inside one of the farm buildings — perhaps even its historic 90-year-old warehouse — first with a video explaining in more detail how tea is harvested and processed. Yoshida Tea Farm produces both green teas and black teas and it is interesting to learn how different processing methods can create two different types of teas from the same leaves.

The entire process of sorting, steaming, and then drying the leaves is explained. For black teas, fermentation and roasting to one degree or another, are also part of the process.

The Tasting

Finally, after the mouth-watering trip through the warehouse, it is time to taste the tea. Usually, visitors get to taste half a dozen different brews as the guide explains how to make the perfect tea as well as the differences between different varieties of tea and the health-giving properties they contain.

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In the case of green tea, Yoshida Tea Farm has sought to rejuvenate an Edo Period style that has become somewhat obscure. For this tea, the connoisseur looks for the perfect blend of umami, aroma, sweetness, richness, and lingering notes, especially focusing on the latter two characteristics. With black tea, on the other hand, aroma, umami and richness are prioritized.

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After the tasting, there is time for visitors to peruse the farm’s shop and perhaps make a purchase in order to duplicate the perfect cup of tea once home. All of the farm’s tea varieties, green, black and even Yoshida Tea Farm’s own special blend herbal tea, are available. Additionally, accoutrements for tea-making are also available: pots in various sizes and made of various materials, cups, strainers, measuring spoons; it’s all here.

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Image: Vicki L Beyer

How to Book a Tour

Advance reservations are required for this two-hour tour experience. Make a booking using this on-line form. If you are unable to navigate the form, which is currently only available in Japanese, use this English form to make an online inquiry in English.

There are two times to choose from: 11 a.m. or 2 p.m.. There is a maximum of five participants on each tour, ensuring a personalized experience.

The cost is 10,000 yen per person, reduced to 5,000 yen per person when booking three to five people together. Tea is, after all, a social drink.

Getting There

JR’s Shonan-Shinjuku, Ueno-Tokyo and Utsunomiya lines all stop at Koga Station, reaching there around an hour and a half (depending on station of origin). Exit via the West Exit to catch a bus bound for “Sakai Shakou” and alight at Otsutsumi (about five minutes) from where it is a four-minute walk to Yoshida Tea Farm. Alternatively, it is about a 30-minute walk to the farm from Koga Station.

Vicki L Beyer, a regular Japan Today contributor, is a freelance travel writer who also blogs about experiencing Japan. Follow her blog at jigsaw-japan.com.

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